Big Basin and the surrounding Santa Cruz Mountains area have a lot to offer, from hikes showcasing the resiliency of redwoods after the 2020 CZU Lightning Complex Fire to rustic wineries and well-loved dining establishments.
By Naomi Friedland
Oct. 18, 2023—Facing a decline in visitors after the fire, Big Basin Redwoods State Park and local businesses are eager to welcome people back to the area. Almost equidistant from Silicon Valley and Santa Cruz, a day trip to Big Basin is the perfect weekend getaway.
Fuel Up Before Hitting the Trail
The Tree House Cafe is a favorite spot amongst Boulder Creek locals. Sourcing primarily from Santa Cruz and Watsonville, they offer coffee from Santa Cruz Coffee Roasting Co., tea, breakfast and lunch, including bagels, sandwiches, and biscuits and gravy which is hard to find at most cafes in the area.
Bella’s Cafe and Jenna Sue’s Cafe also offer breakfast and brunch in downtown Boulder Creek.
Explore California’s First State Park: Big Basin
97% of Big Basin burned down during the 2020 CZU Lightning Complex Fire and state park staff have worked tirelessly to bring the historic park back to public use. While many of the trails remain closed, there is plenty to explore. The Big Basin Redwoods State Park website has an updated list of open roads and trails, as well as the form for getting your required parking pass.
When I got to Big Basin, senior park aide Jan Parker was standing outside the interim visitor’s center explaining to visitors how the fires have impacted the parkand she was directing hikers to open trails.
Parker describes her perspective on the aftermath of the CZU fires. “The fire is doing its thing and we are just here to observe it,” Parker says. After our conversation she directs me to the 0.6-mile Redwood Loop Trail, an ADA-accessible, flat trail where you can see how older redwoods are recovering. If you are looking for a more challenging hike, sections of the 24.8 mile Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail are open to the public.
Parker notes both the dangers and beauty from the aftermath of the fires. Park staff have to keep a close eye on the trails as limbs and trees are still falling down. “There are dead Douglas firs that still haven’t fallen. Seeds dispersed from the fire and lead to (plant) overgrowth,” she cautions. However, recent moisture and fewer trees have allowed wildflowers to shine. Most importantly, she says that this is a great educational moment for visitors. “Whether you know it or not, this is a place to learn about fire ecology,” Parker says.
To learn more about this next phase of Big Basin, check out Reimagining Big Basin.
Big Basin Vineyards
After spending some time at the park, head back down the way you came from Boulder Creek and make a quick detour to Big Basin Vineyards. This small winery is an ideal place to relax, try local wine, and set up a picnic after a hike. A more casual winery than Napa, visitors can come as they are and bring lunch with them (locals recommend Wild Root’s sandwiches and Redwood Keg Liquor and Deli’s Tri-tip sandwich) to enjoy in the midst of the hillside vineyard.
I meet David Johnson, who has worked in the cellar producing wine for four years, as he presses the remaining bits of fermented grape juice from a new batch. Heading into the cellar to try some of the wines, he tells me that Big Basin Vineyards is known for their pinot noir and syrah. In fact, the Santa Cruz Mountain wine region as a whole is known by wine aficionados far and wide for their dry pinot noirs.
What makes Big Basin Vineyard’s red wines unique is that the vast majority of their wines are whole-cluster fermented which means that they ferment the wine with the stems on, which adds tannin structure and more flavor complexity.
I also had the chance to try their chardonnay. As someone who is not usually a fan of chardonnay, it was actually my favorite of the four wines I sampled. Unlike most chardonnays it was not very fruity and was lighter and drier than most.
Places to Dine:
Scopazzi’s Restaurant and Lounge
Scopazzi’s is a historic landmark in Boulder Creek and is the go-to spot for locals to catch up with friends, enjoy classic Italian food, or sip a traditional cocktail by the bar. In the early 1900s when Big Basin was a popular summer vacation spot, the Locatelli’s established this building as an inn and restaurant.
San Francisco restaurant owners’ purchased the building in 1955, building a bar and joining the dining room and inn together. Then in 1983, the current owners purchased the place.
In the 1990s, Boulder Creek and Big Basin shifted to becoming a bedroom community to San Jose and Santa Cruz, and no longer a summer vacation spot, making the restaurant a mainstay for locals and day trip visitors.
The Sawmill Restaurant & Ale House
Seeking a more casual dining option, I ended my day at The Sawmill Restaurant & Ale House. Located a few minutes away from downtown Boulder Creek, this newer family-friendly restaurant offers a variety of beers, delicious burgers, entrees, and fried snacks.
Diners can sit indoors or in their large outdoor space complete with picnic tables and a stage where local musicians play. I enjoyed one of the best burgers I’ve had in a while listening to a talented local bluegrass duo.
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